Choosing the right metal is the single most important decision when buying jewellery. It determines how long your piece lasts, whether it causes skin reactions, and how it looks after months of daily wear. This guide covers every material I use at Lae Jewellery, from sterling silver 925 to 14ct gold filled, with the specific numbers and facts you need to make an informed choice.
I started Lae Jewellery at my kitchen table during lockdown in 2020, and from the very beginning I was obsessive about choosing the right metals. The name "Lae" comes from the initials of my family: L for Lucy, A for Alastair, and E for Emma. Everything I make carries that personal meaning, and the materials have to match that standard. If you have ever wondered whether sterling silver turns your finger green, or what makes gold filled so different from gold plated, this is the guide for you.
Sterling Silver (925)
Sterling silver is the foundation of almost everything I make. It is an alloy of 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% copper, identified by the 925 stamp stamped into the metal. That small percentage of copper is what gives sterling silver its strength; pure silver on its own is far too soft for everyday jewellery.
What I love about sterling silver is its honesty. It is kind to sensitive skin, it can be polished and restored repeatedly, and it genuinely lasts decades with basic care. If you are wondering about showering with sterling silver, the short answer is that it can handle water, but removing it before showering helps it last even longer. Over time it develops a natural patina, a soft darkening that many people actually prefer. If you do not like the patina, a quick polish with a silver cloth brings it straight back to bright.
Sterling silver is also one of the most sustainable precious metals. It can be recycled endlessly without losing quality. For me, working from my studio in Four Crosses on the border of Shropshire and Wales, that matters. Every bracelet, ring, and necklace I handcraft in sterling silver is built to last, not to be thrown away after a season.
Gold Filled (14ct)
Gold filled is the material I recommend most often to customers who want the look and feel of solid gold without the price tag. It is made by mechanically bonding a thick layer of 14ct real gold to a base metal core under intense heat and pressure. By law, gold filled must contain at least 5% real gold by total weight.
Here is the number that matters most: gold filled is 50 to 100 times thicker than gold plating. That is not a small difference. It is the difference between a piece that lasts 10 to 30 years and one that starts to wear within months. Gold filled will not tarnish, flake, or rub off under normal wear. It is safe for sensitive skin, and it looks and wears like solid gold.
I use 14ct gold filled for chains, connectors, charms, and permanent jewellery. If you want to understand how it compares directly to plating, I have written a detailed breakdown in my gold filled vs gold plated guide. It is one of the most important distinctions in jewellery, and most high street brands do not explain it clearly.
As a self-taught jeweller, I spent a long time researching materials before I ever sold a single piece. Gold filled was the clear winner for anyone who wants real gold quality at accessible prices. It is the backbone of my gold collection and every permanent jewellery appointment I do.
Gold Plated (18ct on Surgical Steel)
I believe in being completely transparent about every material I use, and gold plating is no exception. Gold plated jewellery is made by applying a thin layer of 18ct gold onto a base metal via electroplating. In my range, the base metal is surgical steel (316L stainless steel), which is extremely durable and kind to sensitive skin.
The gold layer on plated jewellery is less than 0.5 microns thick. With daily wear, you can expect it to last 6 to 12 months before the plating begins to show signs of wear. That is simply the nature of electroplating, and I would rather tell you upfront than have you find out the hard way.
I use gold plating in my Huggie earring range specifically because the surgical steel base makes them incredibly comfortable and hard-wearing, even if the gold finish is not permanent. For earrings that sit close to the ear and get less friction than bracelets or rings, plating holds up well.
If you want gold that lasts years rather than months, gold filled is the better choice. But if you love the look of the Huggies and understand the trade-off, gold plated on surgical steel is still a solid option.
Gold Vermeil
Gold vermeil sits between gold plated and gold filled in terms of quality and durability. It starts with a sterling silver base, which means it is kind to sensitive skin. The gold layer must be at least 2.5 microns thick, which is significantly more than standard gold plating.
The sterling silver base is what sets vermeil apart from regular plated jewellery. If the gold layer does eventually wear through, you are left with beautiful sterling silver underneath rather than a base metal. It is a good middle ground for anyone who wants gold colour with the reassurance of real silver beneath.
Vermeil requires a little more care than gold filled. Keep it away from water, perfume, and chemicals, and store it in a dry place when not wearing it. With proper care, vermeil pieces can last several years before needing replating.
Freshwater Pearls
Every pearl I use is a genuine freshwater pearl, naturally formed inside a living mollusc. These are not imitation pearls, not plastic, not glass coated in pearlescent paint. They are the real thing.
What makes freshwater pearls special is that each one is unique. You will notice slight variations in shape, size, and lustre from pearl to pearl. That is not a flaw; it is proof that they are genuine. I hand-pick every pearl for quality and consistency, but I also love that no two pieces will ever be exactly identical.
Pearls do need a little extra care compared to metal jewellery. Keep them away from chemicals, perfume, hairspray, and cleaning products. Put your pearl jewellery on last when getting ready, and wipe them gently with a soft cloth after wearing. With that simple routine, they will keep their beautiful lustre for years. For inspiration on how to wear them, take a look at my guide to modern pearl jewellery.
Semi-Precious Gemstones
Gemstones are where things get personal. I stock over 30 varieties across my collections, and every single one is hand-picked for quality and colour. The range includes morganite, rose quartz, aquamarine, carnelian, turquoise, lapis lazuli, apatite, amazonite, and white jade, among others.
Many of my customers choose gemstones based on birthstone, colour preference, or the traditional meaning associated with a particular stone. Morganite for love and compassion. Aquamarine for calm. Carnelian for confidence. I include the meaning with every piece, because jewellery is about more than just how it looks.
My Create Your Own collection is where gemstones really shine. You choose every bead, every gemstone, every detail from over 30 options across six product types: bracelet, earrings, ring, necklace, anklet, and men's bracelet. Everything is made to order in sterling silver or gold filled and dispatched within 1 to 3 working days. With 219+ products in my full range, there is something for everyone.
Master Comparison Table
| Material | Composition | Durability | Kind to sensitive skin? | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sterling Silver (925) | 92.5% pure silver, 7.5% copper | Decades with care | Yes, for most people | Everyday wear, sensitive skin, long-term investment |
| Gold Filled (14ct) | 5%+ real 14ct gold bonded to base metal | 10 to 30 years | Yes | Gold look without solid gold price, daily wear, permanent jewellery |
| Gold Plated (18ct on Surgical Steel) | Less than 0.5 micron 18ct gold on 316L steel | 6 to 12 months daily wear | Yes (surgical steel base) | Huggie earrings, occasional wear, budget-friendly gold |
| Gold Vermeil | Sterling silver base + 2.5+ micron gold layer | 1 to 3 years with care | Yes (sterling silver base) | Middle ground between plated and filled |
| Freshwater Pearls | Genuine, naturally formed in a living mollusc | Years with gentle care | Yes (natural material) | Classic elegance, bridal jewellery, timeless style |
| Semi-Precious Gemstones | Natural minerals (30+ varieties available) | Years with care (hardness varies by stone) | Yes (natural stone) | Personalised pieces, birthstones, Create Your Own |
Frequently Asked Questions
What metal is best for sensitive skin?
Sterling silver 925 and 14ct gold filled are both excellent choices for sensitive skin. Sterling silver is 92.5% pure silver and is kind to sensitive skin. Gold filled contains a thick layer of real 14ct gold that will not irritate the skin. I would avoid standard gold plating if your skin is particularly reactive, as the thin layer can wear through to the base metal underneath.
Does gold filled jewellery turn green?
No. Gold filled jewellery does not turn your skin green. The green discolouration you sometimes see with jewellery comes from copper reacting with moisture on the skin. Sterling silver contains 7.5% copper, which is why it can occasionally cause a green mark. I have a full explanation of pure sterling silver turning green and how to prevent it. Gold filled has a thick protective gold layer (50 to 100 times thicker than plating) that prevents any contact between copper and your skin.
What is the difference between gold filled and gold vermeil?
Gold filled contains at least 5% real gold by weight, mechanically bonded under heat and pressure. It lasts 10 to 30 years. Gold vermeil has a thinner gold layer (at least 2.5 microns) applied over sterling silver, and typically lasts 1 to 3 years with care. Gold filled is the more durable option. Vermeil has the advantage of a sterling silver base, so if the gold does wear through, you are left with beautiful silver rather than a base metal.
Is sterling silver better than silver plated?
Yes, and it is not even close. Sterling silver is 92.5% real silver all the way through. Silver plated jewellery has a microscopically thin layer of silver over a cheap base metal like brass or nickel. Once that plating wears off (usually within weeks), the base metal can cause skin reactions and turns an unpleasant colour. Sterling silver can be polished and restored indefinitely. Silver plated cannot.
How do I care for gold filled jewellery?
Gold filled is low maintenance, which is one of the reasons I love it. Remove it before swimming in chlorinated pools or using harsh cleaning chemicals. Wipe it with a soft cloth after wearing to remove oils and moisture. Store it in a dry place, ideally in a pouch or jewellery box. Avoid spraying perfume directly onto it. For a complete walkthrough covering every metal type, see my guide to cleaning and caring for your jewellery. With these simple steps, your gold filled pieces will stay beautiful for 10 to 30 years.
Explore My Collections
Now you know what goes into every piece, take a look at what I have made.
Gold Filled Collection Create Your Own Full Collection Materials Page
If you are local to Shropshire or Powys, I also offer permanent jewellery from £45 across the region, including Shrewsbury, Telford, Oswestry, Welshpool, Ludlow, Newtown, and Newport. It is a chain bracelet, anklet, or necklace custom-fitted and welded shut with no clasp. The whole process takes about ten minutes, is completely painless, and gives you a piece of jewellery you never have to take off.
If you have any questions about materials, or you are not sure which metal is right for you, drop me a message. I am always happy to help.
Lucy x
